Although Naypyidaw eclipsed Yangon as Myanmar's capital in 2005, Yangon still feels like the de facto center of the country. Its historic waterfront and spectacular veneer of British-colonial architecture may be cornered by one of the world's most contentious military dictatorships, but it's as captivating and dynamic as ever.
Mingaladon Airport is Yangon's gateway and lies 30 minutes outside the city. Most of the hotels near Yangon are in the city center, where well-priced rooms include many budget and mid-range options. Tourists are expected to pay in US dollars, especially in finer establishments with generators that are immune to blackouts.

The definitive site in Yangon is Shwedagon Pagoda, which crests Singuttara Hill. A pagoda in some form has stood here since the 6th century, and local legend insists the legacy goes back much farther than that. This magnificent structure alone warrants a visit to Yangon, though the list of compelling attractions includes many other notable sites. Yangon also boasts zoological gardens, a few cathedrals and a collection of urban lakes.
Some of the best accommodation in Yangon is on the shores of Inya Lake, the largest body of water in the city. This prime stretch of real estate also appeals to members of the controlling military junta, who live in their own opulent lakeside villas.
Shops in downtown Yangon don't open their doors until early evening, when merchants roll out handicrafts, antiques and textiles in Chinatown and Bogyoke Aung San Market. The dining scene has grown exponentially in the past few years, and there's never been a better time to explore the fusion of Shan, Indian, Chinese and British influences at work here.